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Part I
Focusing on
Rings
Part II
Focusing on
Bracelets,
Chains, Pins and Earrings
Cross' Jewelry Care
Guide
Part II
Bracelets & Neckchains
When a bracelet or necklace wears out, why does it wear? Where
does the gold go, and are there ways to reduce the rate of wear? Following is an
examination of several causes of accelerated wear in bracelets and necklaces and
the best ways to reduce or prevent wear.
Why Cleaning Bracelets is so
Important
It is obvious when a film accumulates
on the backside of a gem. Its brilliance is dulled. To restore the sparkle the
solution is obvious, simple cleaning restores its full brilliance and beauty.
What is not as obvious is that this same film seen on the back of gems
accumulates on the hidden surfaces between links of bracelets and necklaces. And
while this film has only a limited effect on beauty, it has a significant effect
on the long term wear, safety and durability of the bracelet or necklace. What
is actually occurring in these hidden spaces between links is a build-up of a
thin film of hair spray, soaps, makeup, perfume, hand cream and or natural body
oils. This thin film becomes the base into which fine particles of ordinary
atmospheric and household dust become embedded. With normal use the links of the
bracelet or necklace flex and move while the embedded microscopic dust acts like
a fine emery paper wearing away hundreds, even thousands, of molecules of gold
every week. The result, slowly, imperceptibly, over time, significant quantities
of gold are worn away.
A thorough cleaning
of gold bracelets and necklaces should be done daily or at the very least
weekly. The best way to clean gold is with a professional, non-abrasive, jewelry
cleaner. To clean gold bracelets and necklaces, simply dip a child's soft
bristle toothbrush into the liquid cleaner, scrub the hidden spaces between the
links, then rinse off in warm water and dry with a towel. A properly cleaned
link bracelet will typically last two to three times longer.
While ordinary
invisible atmospheric dust will accelerate wear, visibly dusty environments like
barns, corrals and construction sites will greatly accelerate wear. Jewelry
should not be worn in these situations.
Proper Bracelet Fitting
Links next to a clasp typically wear
more quickly than other links in a bracelet. Many clasps have an extended
flattened area which exaggerates the motion and flexing of the links on either
side, contributing to increased wear. The clasp is generally heavier than the
rest of the bracelet and after attaching is usually on the underside of the
wrist. The clasp on the underside of the wrist is at the lowest point, it is
also the loosest part of the bracelet where motion is exaggerated - magnified.
More motion results in accelerated wear.
Link bracelets which
are too large wear out more quickly than properly fitted bracelets. If a
bracelet is too loose it is best to have it shortened, Making a bracelet the
proper length can potentially double the life of the bracelet.
Maintenance of Clasps
No clasp is
infallible. Almost all clasps require periodic adjustments to maintain proper
functioning. At any indication of diminished performance or evidence of failure
of a clasp to hold, remove the piece of jewelry and take it to a jeweler to
adjust the clasp or to replace a malfunctioning clasp.
Safer clasp designs
usually take longer to attach and detach. Simple, quick clasps are generally not
as secure as more complex clasps.
It is especially
important to test the clasp each time any bracelet or necklace is attached to be
certain it is functioning properly. If a bracelet or necklace is pulled or
stressed, a clasp can malfunction. It is best to avoid wearing a necklace to bed
to reduce the chances of inadvertent stress on the chain or its clasp. Also,
spring rings and lobster claw clasps have a tiny steel spring which controls the
closure. It is best not to shower while wearing any spring action clasp, as
rust, over time, can cause a reduction or loss of springing action.
All gemstone set
jewelry and jewelry with functioning parts should be reviewed by a professional
at least once a year for safety and security. This is the ideal opportunity to
clean and check for proper operation of clasps, wear on prongs, and tightness of
gems. If you are within driving distance of our store, this is a service we are
pleased to provide free of charge. If outside of our area, most fine jewelry
stores offer this service as well.
Safety chains and
safety devices are a nice added assurance but if at any time, the main clasp
fails, remove the bracelet or necklace. Do not rely on the safety. Most losses
of bracelets and necklaces occur after one or several warning signs. Do not wear
a bracelet or necklace on which the clasp failed to perform until the clasp's
performance has been checked by a professional.
Hollow Link Designs
Hollow construction in gold bracelets and necklaces give the
appearance of size and mass, yet are often very delicate. Extra special care
must be given to hollow and semi-solid designs as more rapid wear will occur.
Desire to Wear
Match intended wear
with appropriate designs. Our best advise to a man shopping for a bracelet or
necklace to be given as a gift to a woman is for him to ask questions about the
relative durability of the designs he is considering and to choose a piece of
jewelry which matches his intent of how he would like to see the piece worn. Our
best advise to the recipient of any fine piece of jewelry is to stop in, we will
be pleased to discuss its appropriate care, wear, and any limitations.
Understanding design, construction, limitations and care greatly enhances
satisfaction with jewelry as well as potentially extending its wearable life.
Use Care When Attaching Pins
Of all the categories of jewelry,
pins generally survive the passage of time best. Some of the finest existing
examples of Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau and Art Deco jewelry styles are
pins. In general, pins incur very little wear over many years of use, and yet
like other forms of jewelry, they are subject to a variety of risks.
The joint (or hinge),
pin (long sharp shaft), and catch (the device that holds and/or locks the pin in
place) are the most critical parts of a pin's long-term safety. The greatest
risks to pins is loss while wearing. This can occur as a result of several
factors:
- improperly clasped clasp
- catching a pin with a shoulder
bag or coat, causing it to unclasp.
- a clasp out of adjustment
Contemporary pins
have safety catches which have a little device that locks in place, helping to
prevent the pin from coming unclasped.
Before attaching a
pin, close and unclose the clasp to be certain it is functioning properly. A
properly functioning clasp should have enough friction to offer a perceptible
resistance. Another way to assure a pin is properly secured is to attach the pin
to your dress lapel before you put the dress on. If this is a new pin, practice
with the closure several times until you know "its feel"...because when you
attach it to your lapel it is generally too close to see and you must rely on
"the feel" for certainty. If at any time, the catch doesn't feel safe don't wear
the pin until you have had a professional check and adjust the tightness.
Antique pins, made
prior to the invention of the safety catch, should have an upward spring in the
pin stem sufficient to provide a positive closure. Antique pins require frequent
adjustment to maintain proper tension. Many antique pins were fitted with an
additional safety feature in the form of a little locking device which slides
over the end of the pin stem, providing an additional degree of assurance from
loss. Even for high value contemporary pins, these safety devices, the Hercules
Clutch, and the acorn-shaped pin protector, can provide an additional measure of
safety.
The security of a pin
should be tested after you put on or remove an overcoat, to be certain that the
safety device is still in a fully locked position. Seatbelts can damage pins and
cause clasps to open. If you are to be the driver or passenger determine the
angle of the shoulder strap. Always attach your pin to the lapel not covered by
the shoulder strap to avoid risk of damage. It is also important to avoid
carrying a purse with a shoulder strap on the same side as the pin. Caution
should be used while wearing pins when caring for young children. The curiosity
of a young child can result in them pricking themselves on the hidden pin stem,
hurting themselves on the outer edge of the design, or pulling or bending the
design of the pin.
Some thoughts on the
clothing to which you will be attaching your pins: The weight of the clothing
must be sufficiently heavy to support the weight of the pin. Very sheer, loose
fitting blouses, fabrics such as crepe, sheer silks rayons, and light polyester
lack the body to support most pins. It is also a good idea to test the pin stem
on the hem of any fabric, to see if it leaves a visible hole or mark which
remains when the pin is removed. Satin, silk, taffeta, pima cotton and linens
are often unforgiving of pins. Always test first. And finally, prior to
inserting a pin stem into any clothing, be certain that the pin is spotlessly
clean. Tarnish on silver, Oxidation on antique pins, or microscopic traces of
make-up can leave a permanent discoloration on lighter fabrics.
It is especially
important whenever you attach any pin to take a few extra moments to be certain
the pin stem is securely resting in its holder and the little tabs of the
closure device are pushed fully down into the locking position. It is always
best to practice with the clasping device of a new pin as many have differences
in how they operate. Pins require periodic adjustment.
All gemstone-set
jewelry and jewelry with functioning parts should be reviewed by a professional
at least once a year for safety and security. This is the ideal opportunity to
clean and check for proper operation of clasps, wear on prongs, and tightness of
gems. If you are within driving distance of our store, this is a service we are
pleased to provide free of charge. If outside of our area, most fine jewelry
stores offer this service as well.
Earrings -
How to Prevent Loss
Like pins, earrings
receive very little direct wear, and yet are still subject to a variety of
perils. Because of their small size, one of the greatest risks to earrings is
loss.
Pierced earrings have
a post (the part which goes through the ear) and a nut (which holds the post
secure on the ear). It is of critical importance that the post and nut are
properly sized and fitted to each other. Because earrings are made with
different diameter posts, one set of earnuts will not necessarily hold another
earring securely. Interchanging earnuts places earrings at a high risk of being
lost.
Many women will have
a favorite pair of earrings, and desire to wear them nearly all the time.
Activities which result in the bending of posts or loosening of earnuts and the
earrings are: sleeping with earrings on; towel-drying hair after showering or
swimming, putting on or removing a pull-over sweater, brushing or pulling back
long hair; removal of scarves, hats, and heavy winter clothing, and talking on
the telephone. Earnuts should be checked daily for proper tension, or just prior
to putting into your ears. Proper tension on an earnut should require at least
mild effort to slide on and off.
Earnuts are made from
different gauges of tempered gold. We make an earnut which is more than
three-times the weight and strength of the average earnut; and while they are
not infallible, they are one of the most secure earnuts available. These heavy
gauge, tight fitting earnuts come with all of our Cross earrings, and should not
be used with other earring you may own. (Heavy weight earnuts may be purchased
for your other earrings, but must be properly fitted and adjusted to assure
proper tension on the earring post.)
Clip-back earrings
and pierced-clip earrings should be adjusted for tightness, so that they do not
pinch the ears, while still providing enough tension to hold the earrings
securely in place. Pierced-clip designs are often for larger earring styles and
provide good stability. These larger designs rarely work well converted to
pierced backs only.
When purchasing
earrings for use with earring jackets, be sure that posts are long enough to
accommodate the extra thickness of the jackets.
Gem-set earrings left
loose in a jewelry box or in a purse can move around and scratch one another. A
simple and safe way to store your earrings is to slide the post of one earring
through an in-place earnut on the other earring, locking it in place with its
own earnut. Then slip the pair into a small transparent zip lock plastic jewelry
pouches.
Timeless But Not Indestructible
Dispelling the Myth
That Jewelry Does Not Wear Out
-Nanz Aalund
In 1780 the Conquistadors smashed one
priceless Colombia emerald after another, believing that true emeralds should
withstand any blow. In 1960, during one of their infamous fights, Elizabeth
Taylor pitched the flawless Taylor-Burton Diamond at Richard Burton. The impact
of landing on a marble floor cracked the diamond's edge and thereby dropped its
clarity grade and value. In the spring of 1994, a client of mine was horrified
to realize that in her attempt to keep her pearls from being stolen, she had
ruined them by hiding them in her freezer.
Ignorance of the
proper care for jewelry and gemstones was the cause of these and many other
smaller disasters. Of the many erroneous beliefs that surround jewelry and
gemstones, one of the most dangerous and pervasive is the misconception that
jewelry does not wear out. The danger of this misconception is twofold. First,
without being aware of the special care gemstones and jewelry require, most
people may not store or clean their jewelry properly, running the risk of
destroying their cherished heirlooms, like my client did with her pearls. The
second danger is, while harboring the idea that jewelry does not wear out, a
person may wear their jewelry during inappropriate activities or in damaging
ways.
For example, it may
be fashionable to place a delicate gold bracelet on the same wrist as a
stainless steel Rolex. Yet after wearing them together twenty-four hours a day
for six months, the constant abrasion between the two may cause the bracelet to
break. Many women with pierced ears choose to wear earrings to bed.
Unfortunately, large hoops may catch on bedding, tearing the earlobe. A
gentleman may purchase a fragile opal ring and proceed to wear it to work on a
construction site. In my fifteen years experience as a goldsmith and jewelry
designer, I have heard customers comment, "I wasn't doing anything and the stone
just fell out!" Upon examination, the piece shows signs of prolonged wear, such
as missing prongs, bent shanks, dents and gouges in the metal.
If one is unaware of
the special care certain jewelry may require, it is tempting to jump to the
conclusion that, should a piece become damaged or show signs of wear, it must be
an inferior product. What many people don't realize is that every time we grasp
a handle, turn a knob or wash our hands, we leave minute traces of gold from our
jewelry behind. The skin on the palms of our hands is being totally replaced
every seven days due to wear, yet we do not notice its loss because it is on the
molecular level. While our skin replaces itself, our rings, watches and
bracelets do not fare as well, and with time, the damage can add up.
This misconception
that jewelry shouldn't wear out seems to be particularly difficult to dispel.
Perhaps some people have subconsciously translated the wonderfully romantic
DeBeers slogan "A diamond is forever, "to mean literally "a diamond cannot be
broken "or "diamond jewelry will last forever." Ron Dean of the Diamond
Information Center in the Pacific Northwest clarifies the DeBeers slogan by
pointing out that "the youngest diamond in your jeweler's display case was
formed approximately 97 million years ago - which is pretty close to forever."
Margaret McCann, of the Diamond Information Center's New York office, offers
these thoughts: "Since the diamond is the hardest known substance on earth, it
has come to represent the lasting commitment and unbreakable bond of love
between a man and a woman. "However, Ms. McCann goes on to add, "Even though a
diamond is durable, it can be chipped by a hard blow." The Diamond Information
Center has a booklet titled "Your Guide to Buying and Caring for Diamond," which
is available upon request from your local jewelry store.
A second factor
compounding this misconception is the abundance of "estate" jewelry, which is
often mistaken for "antique" jewelry, thereby giving the erroneous impression
that jewelry should last several hundred years. What is the difference between
antique and estate jewelry? Federal law requires a piece of jewelry to be at
least one hundred years old to be classified as antique, whereas estate jewelry
is simply jewelry that has been previously owned and may be no more than a few
years old.
The truth about most
surviving antique jewelry is that it was not worn on a daily basis. Antique
jewelry and pieces from the 1920 and 1930 that we see today have endured because
they were kept in a safe deposit box for most of their existence. In fact, the
reason you are able to wear grandmother's ring is because grandmother (or
great-grandmother) kept it in her jewel box and probably wore it only on special
occasions. Like her best china, grandmother kept her best jewelry and heirloom
pieces safe from the damage that daily use would cause.
Current marketing
surveys show that up to 80 percent of jewelry sold is to women who purchase it
for themselves. And often women will wear their jewelry when gardening, rock
climbing or playing racquetball. While grandmother would not have dreamed of
wearing her fine jewelry during household chores or yard work, today's busy
woman does not think of removing her jewelry during such activities.
To help you get more
years of enjoyment from your jewelry, it is important to learn the proper care
considerations for your fine pieces. First, it is best to remove jewelry before
engaging in sports, household chores or yard work, and at bedtime. It is
obviously dangerous to wear neck chains, bracelets and rings while participating
in sports such as football and basketball, but tennis and racquetball can be
equally damaging to jewelry. Even the seemingly harmless sport of swimming can
have disastrous effects on jewelry. Chlorinated water in pools and hot tubs
attacks gold alloys, causing them to become brittle and break. In cleaning house
or gardening, you may come into contact with many abrasive surfaces, compounds
and chemicals that can scratch and discolor gold, platinum and gemstones. It may
be true that "diamonds are a girl's best friend, "but a porcelain kitchen sink
is a diamond's worst enemy and can chip its facets. I also discourage my friends
and customers from wearing their jewelry to bed. Not only does this increase
wear and tear on the jewelry from getting caught and snagged on bed linens or
sleepwear, but it might also cause the wearer injury.
Cleaning gold and
silver jewelry is very easy to do and, when done properly and regularly, can
keep your jewelry sparkling.
Finally, rinse the
jewelry in clear water and blot it dry on a soft hand towel. Any discoloration
or dirt that this process cannot remove should be brought to the attention of
your personal jeweler, who can have the piece steam cleaned or professionally
polished.
If any piece of
jewelry has loose gemstones, it should be brought in for repair before the
stones are lost. Taking your jewelry in to your personal jeweler for biannual
checkups is a great way to catch wear before it becomes a serious problem. This
service is offered free by most professional jewelers.
Don't hesitate to ask
your jeweler any question you might have about caring for your jewelry. The more
you know about your jewels and how to care for them, the greater - and
longer-lasting - your enjoyment of them will be.
Article reprinted with permission:
JQMagazine JB Oct 97
Extra Special Care for Pearls
A cultured pearl
contains a spherical shell core surrounded by layers of nacre which gives a
pearl its luster. Even on the finest quality, in a 6.5mm size, the thickness of
these luster layers are less than 3/10mm thick, about the thickness of four
sheets of typing paper. Because the hardness of a pearl is only 21/2 - 41/2 (a
little harder than a fingernail), it must be protected from scratching or
abrasion, which will dull and wear the surface. Perhaps the greatest risk to
long term beauty in a strand of fine cultured pearls is wear which can occur
from minute traces of make-up. Many make-ups contain microscopic particles which
can slowly abrade the surface of the pearl.
Care must be taken to
first, do hair, apply make-up avoiding areas of the skin which will come in
contact with the pearls. Then wash your hands, dress and attach your pearl
necklace and earrings, bracelet and ring. This order of dressing is important to
avoid make-up contamination. If you think of make-up like a very fine powdered
sandpaper, you can understand how a trace of make-up on the skin where the
pearls are being worn, or even the slightest dusting of make-up on clothing
coming in contact with pearls, or tiny particles on the fingers can cause
accelerated wear on the surface of your fine pearls.
When you undress,
your pearl jewelry should be the first thing you remove, to prevent any possible
contamination from make-up. Pearls and fine jewelry should be stored separately
from where you apply your make-up. Following removal, always wipe pearls with a
soft, damp (not wet), clean cloth or tissue free of lanolin, to remove traces of
perspiration or any oils from the skin. A buildup of oils in the porous surface
of a pearl, over time, can contribute to a discoloration of the pearl. Keep your
pearls separate from diamonds and other hard gems in your jewelry box, to avoid
scratching them. Another risk is hair spray, perfume and hand lotion, any of
which coming in contact with pearls can cause discoloration. Like in the
preceding example, perfume and hair spray should be applied before dressing and
attaching jewelry. We have often noticed discoloration in pearl bracelets when
perfume is regularly applied to the wrist. Hand lotion should simply be avoided
when wearing pearls. Not only can hand lotion cause discoloration in a pearl,
its sticky residue can attract dust which can cause wear on the pearls, as well
as wearing the silk cord on which it is strung.
Our cultured pearl
necklaces are strung with a high quality silk thread for both strength and
beauty. The silk thread is finely knotted between the pearls to protect them
from rubbing against one another and also to keep the pearls from scattering
should the string break. Constant wear can weaken the necklace string. Pearl
manufacturers recommend pearls be strung once a year. In practice, they usually
last much longer, especially if you follow the above recommendations.
Pearl Summary
Treat your
cultured pearls as precious jewels.
Store your pearls
in a chamois bag or wrap in tissue. This will prevent scratching and fading.
Put pearls on
after applying hair spray or perfume To maintain the luster of your cultured
pearls, rinse with mild soap and water or clean in Cross pearl cleaner and
they lay them flat to dry. Do not hang.
Have your
cultured pearls restrung periodically. This prevents the silk from
stretching or getting worn out. Always ask to have your pearls restrung on
silk. Nylon has a tendency to abrade the drill holes.
Always remove
pearl rings before bathing or doing dishes.
DO NOT
clean with chemicals while wearing pearls.
DO NOT
store cultured pearls in a plastic bag.
Always wipe your
cultured pearls with a soft tissue before and after wearing.
Mindful
Jewelry Protection
You can program your
subconscious mind to take extra special care of your gem set rings and other
fine jewelry. By a simple act of willing, asking your subconscious to look out
for situations in which your ring might be at risk.
A good example of
this in the short term is how aware you are after you have just done your nails.
If your nails take thirty minutes to dry, you hold your hands differently during
this time. You select your activities carefully. If you have long hair you may
not even answer the phone. While the polish is drying you are not apt to be
thinking every moment, "My nails are still drying…my nails are still drying."
And yet, the mind is on automatic pilot. You're protected.
The same is true of
wearing gem stone set rings. If you make your intent to protect your gems
specific and clear, "The gem will come in contact with nothing," you intuitively
move through time and space with much greater care, knowing how to hold your
hands and when it is appropriate to remove your rings.
We hope this
information in our Wear Care Guide is helpful. If you have any questions
regarding fine gems or jewelry, please stop in or give us a call.
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